“It’s an art,” said Sorbillo. “It began in Naples and survived centuries, despite the difficulties, earthquakes, Vesuvius, war, wars.” Sorbillo says that the path towards Unesco’s recognition began some 300 years ago, although it actually started more recently, in 2009, when Pier Luigi Petrillo, a professor and Italian expert on “lobbying theories and techniques”, made three requests to Unesco on behalf of the Ministry of Agriculture of Italy.

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